This season is epitomized by a period of deep reflection, where designer Kanika Goyal explores fragmented memories and identity, through interweaving past and future experiences. Playing with the principle of paradox, it’s only fitting that KGL unveils Arc Echo’ during a forthcoming debut at London Fashion Week; a flux of beginnings and endings, marked through the intricacies of self-deliberation.

Tasked with exploring what it means to look at multiple versions of oneself, the collection is inspired by the transformative qualities of dreams, evoking a familiar sense of déjà vu’. Garments fuse bold design and primary colours, interweaving different facets of one’s personality to create a whole piece. Mosaic knits illustrate the complexity within our memories, bold, bright and pop-art in nature. A juxtaposition of harmony and chaos, rich inner worlds are reflected through hybrid blazers, jacquard knits and weaved denim. An ode to the designers fascination with human psychology, Arc Echo connects a disarray of thoughts and experiences through beautiful design, artistry and colour.

Innovation and collaboration is key, questioning the rigid notions of tailoring with a considered approach to materials. Fabrics honour Indian craftsmanship, uplifting local artisans in New Delhi for embroidery excellence. Surplus fabrics from mills are repurposed, uniting the old and new in a nod to Kanika’s heritage and upbringing. Jackets and trousers are weaved from thin strips of deadstock denim, dresses are patched from unused pieces. Materials honour past collections, sharing resources to reduce environmental footprint. A hero, upcycled, denim two-piece is personified by its stand-out mosaic nature. Quality belts, bags, accessories and trims are crafted in surplus leather offcuts, procured from remaining factory stock. Kanika provocatively infuses deep values of circularity, repurposing and social uplift into the creative process.

Stereotypes and perception are deconstructed with a free-spirited attitude to fit and design. Experimenting with laminated crushed leather, cracked-bonded and creased taffetas see’s a fresh take on traditional shirting. Colour is used in a symphonic way, encapsulating the range of emotions from grounding neutral tones to bright blues and green to luxury coppers and reds. The jewel in the collection is the ‘Gurmukhi’ dress; an intricate, fully embellished, shattered design with the brand monogram presented through the sacred Gurmukhi alphabet. Encouraging introspection, these pieces are a mirror to reflect not only external appearances but the internal nuances of identity. KGL forever shines a light on important topics and values, in a fun and vibrant way.

Arc Echo is brought to life through a visual London Fashion Week presentation. Perspex, mesh and vinyl immortalise the passage of time; showcasing the disparity between our past and future selves. Channeling perceptions within the dream realm, obscured acrylic screens fuse identities through a lineup of 16 key looks. An exciting start to the year, Founder Kanika Goyal states: “After showing in New York for the past four seasons, we are making the exciting move to London Fashion Week, showing our Autumn Winter 2024 collection in a city famed for creativity and culture.’’

 Photo Olu Ogunshakin

Indian-based KGL is a neo-luxury brand, playing with the principle of paradox and celebrating a non-traditionalist point of view. Founded in 2014 by Kanika Goyal, the label set out to deconstruct the rigid perception of tailoring, questioning gender stereotypes with a free, youthful spirit that defines the “now’’ using humour to communicate ideas. The brand offers a womenswear line, a unisex line and an edit of accessories. Showing at New York Fashion Week since February 2022, this season marks the debut appearance at London Fashion Week.

Signature traits of the brand are references to pop art, deconstructed silhouettes, handmade embellishments, playful tailoring and narratives underpinned by human psychology.

KGL values circularity, collaboration, social uplift, repurposing and upcycling, using materials that have longer life-cycles and are less resource-dependent. Uplifting Indian craft is key, upcycling discarded fabrics and surplus stock from Indian mills.

Celebrity fans include MIA, Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone.