Ray Chu presents ‘Fans Only Club’ SS27 at London Fashion Week

Ray Chu presented Fans Only Club, his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, during London Fashion Week on 18 September 2026. Inspired by Taiwan’s Sambucus flower, known locally as 冇骨消, the collection explores quiet strength, community and identity through gender-fluid tailoring, translucent layers and botanical references.

The Sambucus flower grows in clusters of small white blossoms. For Chu, its ability to appear delicate while forming a strong collective shape became a metaphor for connection and resilience. That idea runs throughout SS27, from the construction of the clothes to the collection’s prints, embellishment and collaborations.

Botanical forms shape the SS27 wardrobe

Founder and Creative Director Ray Chu translates the Sambucus flower into refined tailoring and body-conscious silhouettes. Fluid layers sit alongside more precise structures, while botanical forms appear through fragmented prints, clustered embellishment and controlled shimmer.

Two original prints anchor the season. Taiwan Banana Club, which first appeared in the Pre-Spring 2027 capsule, continues Chu’s colourful and nostalgic interpretation of Taiwanese culture. A new Sambucus print transforms the flower’s clustered blossoms into an abstract botanical motif.

Selected looks also feature Swarovski ReCreated™ Crystals, with support from Swarovski. The crystals use crystal manufacturing breakage as their source material. Chu applies them in delicate formations that reference water droplets, reflected light and the natural clustering of Sambucus flowers.

The embellishment adds brightness without overtaking the collection’s quieter visual language. Instead, it reinforces the contrast between delicacy and structure that defines SS27.

MOMOJIRI WORKS brings wearable sculpture to the collection

Ray Chu also collaborated with Japanese artist MOMOJIRI WORKS for the season. The artist reinterprets Chu’s botanical references through twisting lines, delicate structures and unexpected proportions.

The resulting pieces sit between jewellery, object and wearable sculpture. They extend the collection’s central idea of transformation by allowing one source of inspiration to move through two distinct creative approaches.

Chu’s fluid tailoring meets MOMOJIRI WORKS’ playful treatment of form, creating another layer within the collection rather than a separate visual statement.

Fashion, humour and sensuality

The London Fashion Week presentation also included a partnership with Hong Kong sexual-wellness brand Hello Nancy.

The brand sponsored the presentation, while selected looks incorporated products from its Tennis Collection. These included Ace and Smash, two tennis-inspired pleasure devices presented by Hello Nancy as its “doubles partners”.

The collaboration connects with the playful side of Ray Chu’s Taiwan Banana Club concept, where fruit, colour and humour form part of the visual language. Within Fans Only Club, that approach introduces an interaction between clothing, the body and object design.

Rather than treating sensuality as separate from everyday fashion, the presentation places it alongside tailoring and more expressive statement pieces.

Material innovation remains part of Ray Chu’s approach

Material development continues across SS27. Lightweight mint-fibre shirting introduces softness and breathability, while quick-drying Icy Grass jersey brings a more technical quality to everyday garments.

According to the collection notes, the range predominantly uses natural-fibre-based or environmentally conscious fabrics. Chu uses these choices to continue his exploration of material responsibility, function and garment longevity.

At the same time, tailoring remains central to the brand’s design language. For summer, Chu loosens that structure through sheer layers, relaxed shirting and adaptable separates. The pieces are designed to move across different bodies, identities and occasions.

“The Sambucus flower does not need to be loud to be noticed. Each blossom is incredibly small, but when they bloom together, they create something strong and almost otherworldly. For me, that represents the quiet strength found in community, identity and the courage to grow in your own way,” said Ray Chu, Founder and Creative Director.

With Fans Only Club, Ray Chu connects Taiwanese botanical imagery with contemporary tailoring, material experimentation and collaborative design. The result places community and individuality within the same visual framework, while continuing the designer’s gender-fluid approach to dressing.