Inside MUR MUR: Anastasia Baukh on Sensuality, Odesa and the Woman Who Dresses for Herself
There are brands that begin with a silhouette, and there are brands that begin with a feeling. For Anastasia Baukh, MUR MUR belongs to the second category.
Known for her work behind BAUKH, the Ukrainian designer has entered a new creative chapter — one that feels less about strict form and more about atmosphere, movement and the inner state of the woman wearing the clothes. MUR MUR may sound soft, almost like a whisper, but its visual language is far from fragile. It is sensual without being obvious, feminine without being naïve, and confident without becoming cold.
Inspired by the free-spirited energy of the 1970s, the brand carries the mood of Odesa — light, sea air, theatricality, humour, emotion and a certain relaxed sensuality that cannot be artificially constructed. In this conversation, Anastasia Baukh speaks about the evolution from BAUKH to MUR MUR, the women who inspire her, Ukrainian fashion on the global stage and why the right garment can change not only how a woman looks, but how she feels.
– Anastasia, you stood behind the brand BAUKH, and today you are developing MUR MUR. What has changed in your designer voice over this time?
BAUKH was more about form. MUR MUR is about feeling. It is about what a woman experiences inside the clothes, not only about the image that appears from the outside.
– MUR MUR sounds soft, almost like a whisper, but visually the brand feels confident and seductive. What kind of woman stands behind this mood?
The MUR MUR woman is not trying to be perfect — and that is exactly where her strength lies. She is a woman who no longer plays a role. She knows that she can be fragile and strong at the same time, seductive and intellectual at the same time. She does not need to choose only one version of herself.
– Your brand is inspired by the aesthetics of the 1970s. What attracts you most in that era — freedom, silhouettes, cinema, music or a special feminine energy?
I feel close to the natural sensuality that existed in that period. There was no overload, no desperate attempt to look perfect. There was air, movement and life. Even the most seductive looks felt as if a woman was dressing primarily for herself.
– If MUR MUR were not a fashion brand, but a film, what would its genre, heroine and soundtrack be?
It would be a film about a woman returning to herself — through love, solitude, travel, music and accidental encounters. A film where the events are not as important as the feelings that exist between them.
– There is a sense of femininity in your pieces without unnecessary innocence. How do you find the balance between softness, sexuality and character?
Sexuality is never built on obviousness or on the desire to create an effect at any cost. MUR MUR pieces look delicate and confident at the same time. There is emotion in them, but no weakness. There is sexuality, but no demonstration.
– Odesa is a city with a very recognisable mood: the sea, the light, freedom and a little theatricality. How does it influence the aesthetics of MUR MUR?
I think Odesa aesthetics are never sterile or too “ideal”. There is always life in them — a little chaos, humour, temperament. For me, this is very important because MUR MUR is also not about cold perfection. It is about emotion, atmosphere and memory.
Perhaps this relaxed sensuality comes from Odesa. It is when sexuality does not look like an image someone has intentionally constructed, but like a natural continuation of a woman and her state of mind.
– What is more important to you in clothing — perfect fit, silhouette, fabric or the emotion a woman feels when she looks at herself in the mirror?
Silhouette, fabric and fit are the language through which that emotion appears. I have always wanted to create clothes that change not only the external image, but also the internal state. When a woman puts on a piece and suddenly becomes a little more confident, calmer, more sensual — or simply starts liking herself more in the mirror — that is the most important thing.
– Which MUR MUR piece best reveals the DNA of the brand? The piece that makes you think: “Yes, this is MUR MUR.”
Most likely, our long trench coats with waist-high slits. When standing still, the trench plays with its form and clean lines. But when the woman walks, it opens the legs and hips, showing the freedom of the one who wears it.
– Ukrainian fashion is becoming more visible internationally. What do you think makes Ukrainian brands so strong and noticeable?
Ukrainian women themselves are a very powerful source of inspiration. They carry softness, dignity, sexuality, independence and inner resilience at the same time. Many Ukrainian brands, consciously or not, transmit this state.
That is probably why Ukrainian fashion sounds so strong today: behind it there is not only aesthetics, but also a very powerful human experience and the desire to create beauty even in difficult times.
– MUR MUR has already been presented in an international fashion context. What does it mean for you to take a brand from Odesa onto a wider stage?
First of all, it shows that Ukrainian brands have the possibility to go beyond the Ukrainian market, and that they are welcomed in other countries. It is also about expanding boundaries — both for the brand and for me personally. This result showed me that we are capable of a lot when we are truly driven by inner desire.
– How do you see the MUR MUR woman in a few years? Will she remain a bohemian 70s heroine or become even bolder, more modern and more global?
The MUR MUR woman naturally lives her life. She does not need to become stronger or better. She simply continues to be herself in any circumstances and through any changes in society.
– And if you had to describe MUR MUR in one phrase for a woman discovering the brand for the first time, what would you say?
Put on one of our pieces once and feel its energy. If it is yours, you will stay with us for a long time.
