Haus of Mclees presents ‘RENATUS’ at London Fashion Week
Haus of Mclees presented RENATUS at London Fashion Week on 19 September 2026, introducing a collection centred on rebirth, vulnerability and the passage from darkness towards renewal. Founded by Swiss and Native American designer Mclees Mantegazza, the London-based house connects the collection’s narrative with traditional beadwork, sculptural construction and references to the designer’s heritage.
The title comes from the Latin word for “reborn”. Mantegazza developed the concept from a book she created during her master’s degree, which explored the experience of losing oneself before confronting a more vulnerable version of the self. That idea became the foundation for a collection about surrender, transformation and starting again.
Hand-beading and sculptural forms define RENATUS
A restrained palette of black, white, silver and gold follows the collection’s movement between darkness and light. Exposed silhouettes and sculptural forms reveal rather than conceal the body, while intricate surface work brings texture and detail.
Haus of Mclees combines recycled materials with silk, embellished mesh, embroidery, crystals and semi-precious stones. The atelier then develops these materials through extensive hand-beading, a technique closely connected to Mantegazza’s personal history.
Her relationship with beadwork began during time spent with her grandfather on the Wind River Reservation. Today, that influence sits alongside references to music, performance and festival culture. The result is a practice that moves between heritage, contemporary adornment and one-of-one fashion pieces.
Angelic and religious imagery also appears throughout RENATUS, alongside references to Mother Nature. A recurring spiral acts as a symbol of continuity and return. Drawing partly on Mantegazza’s Native American heritage, the collection considers death not simply as an ending, but as one stage within a continuing process of change.
An atelier-led approach in Notting Hill
Haus of Mclees has developed from a one-woman operation into a small atelier in Notting Hill, where designers and artisans work alongside Mantegazza. The house produces its collections in limited quantities, while many pieces are made to order.
The team uses recycled, repurposed and second-hand materials wherever possible. Most garments are handcrafted within the atelier. Selected jewellery by Lady Pill Art, created in collaboration with Taylor Papadakis, extends the collection’s focus on adornment beyond clothing.
The label also offers inclusive sizing, custom orders and made-to-order pieces, allowing individual garments to respond to different bodies and forms of personal expression. As a Native American-founded brand, Haus of Mclees also states a commitment to Indigenous visibility and respectful representation.
From London Fashion Week to Paris and Miami
Haus of Mclees has already presented at Miami Swim Week and London Fashion Week. Its work has appeared in Forbes and Vanity Fair, while artists and performers including Shakira, Bombay Mami, Natasha Diggs and Naïka have worn pieces from the house.
The London presentation also arrives before a period of expansion. Haus of Mclees plans to showcase during Paris Fashion Week in October 2026 before relocating to Miami in January 2027.
According to the brand, the move will introduce expanded collections, new ready-to-wear designs and a major menswear line. Bespoke couture and custom commissions will remain part of the business, while Mantegazza plans to preserve the atelier-led approach that shaped the house in London.
For RENATUS, that intimate production model becomes part of the collection’s wider story. Handcraft, personal history and symbolic imagery come together in a study of what can be retained, transformed or surrendered when beginning again.
The collection was developed with Brent Heighton, Manager and Assistant Beadwork Designer; Coffee Lum and Ariel Chow, Assistant Designers; and Bella Conner, Design Intern.
