ANCIELA explores motherhood, memory and material innovation for SS27

London-based womenswear label ANCIELA will present its Spring/Summer 2027 collection during London Fashion Week on 17 September 2026. The presentation will take place at Regent Quarter in London at 7pm, with support from The Mills Fabrica and Endurance Land.

For SS27, founder and designer Jennifer Droguett Espinosa explores the relationship between mother and daughter. The collection looks at care, protection and inherited knowledge. However, it also considers the tension and trauma that can exist within this relationship.

ANCIELA then connects these ideas with humanity’s relationship with Mother Earth. As a result, the collection moves through questions of memory, environmental responsibility and resilience.

A collection shaped by past, present and future

The collection follows a sequence of past, present and future. It examines what previous generations can teach us, how we respond to current environmental challenges and what we might need to build a more resilient future.

ANCIELA translates these themes into adaptable tailoring. Adjustable panels allow garments to change, while detachable sleeves create different ways to wear individual pieces. In addition, layers connect, tie and knot around the body.

This approach gives the garments flexibility while supporting the brand’s wider interest in circular design.

Materials also play an important role. ANCIELA combines vintage silk donated by artist Allegra Hicks with rescued wool suiting from Orsola de Castro. Deadstock cottons appear alongside certified Tencel and recycled cotton.

The brand also introduces several next-generation materials for SS27.

AlgaFila appears across knitwear and padded garments. The fibre combines seaweed extract, air and nanotechnology. According to the press release, it offers a lightweight and thermally insulating alternative to conventional padding and yarns.

ANCIELA also works with Savigne by Planet of the Grapes. The plant-based, animal-free leather alternative uses grape skins, stalks and seeds left after winemaking. Its raw material comes directly from organic and biodynamic vineyards in Provence.

Meanwhile, abstract fern motifs draw inspiration from jungles and deep forest landscapes. ANCIELA creates these motifs with a black bio-based pigment developed by synthetic biology platform Octarine.

Fashion, sound and live performance

The London Fashion Week presentation will extend beyond clothing. ANCIELA will combine the collection with an immersive exhibition focused on materials, sound and nature.

The interactive Upcycled Sound Cocoon will sit at the centre of the installation. ANCIELA created the work from reclaimed foam, wadding and fabric offcuts collected from its studio over five years.

The Design Museum first presented the installation in 2025. For the SS27 presentation, artist Yasmin Rai has created a new sonic composition to accompany it.

Together, the installation and sound work will connect the collection’s material processes with wider ecological systems. These references range from the hidden life of soil to changing landscapes in the Amazon.

A live performance will also form part of the programme. Filmmaker Marie Lanna will direct the work with artist Luzmira Zerpa. The performance will unfold across three acts and explore ancestry, connection, transformation and regeneration.

ANCIELA continues its multidisciplinary approach

Jennifer Droguett Espinosa founded ANCIELA in London in 2019. The Colombian-Chilean interdisciplinary designer uses South American folklore, migration and childhood memories as recurring points of reference.

Since its foundation, the label has combined experimental tailoring with recycling, upcycling and regenerative practices. It has also developed installations, performances, workshops, augmented reality experiences and panel discussions.

The SS27 presentation follows a notable year for ANCIELA. Visa Young Creators x Global Fashion Agenda named the label among its 2026 winners, and ANCIELA presented its work at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen.

The British Fashion Council also selected ANCIELA for Fashion Britain, an initiative showcasing emerging and established British fashion talent.

With SS27, ANCIELA brings these strands together through clothing, new materials, installation and performance. The collection uses the relationship between memory and adaptation to examine how fashion can respond to environmental change while remaining connected to personal and cultural histories.